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In the mirror, I can see myself in enormous shimmering pantaloons, seen exclusively in my view. Children sit in a water feature imitating ocean creatures, while adjacent rests a chatting legume in a display case, next to a tall pile of bedding. This is the world of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 19th century’s most beloved writers. I'm visiting the city of Odense, situated in Fyn in the southern region of Denmark, to explore the writer's timeless impact in his birthplace 150 years after his passing, and to experience a couple of fairytales of my own.

The Museum: H.C. Andersen's House

Andersen's House is the town's exhibition space dedicated to the author, including his original residence. A curator notes that in previous versions of the museum there was little focus on his fairytales. His personal history was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For visitors who visit the city in search of storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redevelopment of the city center, rerouting a primary street, created the chance to rethink how the city’s most famous son could be celebrated. An international design contest gave the architects from Japan Kengo Kuma and Associates the contract, with the curators’ new approach at the center of the layout. The unique wood-paneled museum with interwoven spiral spaces debuted to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to design an environment where we avoid discussing the writer, but we communicate similarly to Andersen: with wit, satire and outlook,” says the expert. The landscape design embrace this concept: “The outdoor area for wanderers and for large beings, it's planned to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he explains, an objective realized by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with height, size and numerous twisting trails in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned multiple autobiographies and frequently changed his story. The exhibition adopts this philosophy seriously; often the views of his acquaintances or excerpts of written messages are shown to gently question the writer's personal account of happenings. “The writer is the narrator, but he’s not reliable,” says the expert. The result is a fascinating swift exploration of Andersen’s life and creations, thought processes and best-loved narratives. It is provocative and fun, for mature visitors and children, with a bonus basement fantasy realm, the pretend town, for the children.

Discovering the City

Returning to the actual city, the modest urban center of this Danish city is picturesque, with cobbled streets and historic timber buildings painted in cheerful shades. The author's presence is everywhere: the traffic lights display the author with his distinctive formal headwear, bronze footmarks provide a complimentary pedestrian route, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Every August this dedication culminates with the annual storytelling event, which marks the author’s legacy through art, dance, theatre and musical performances.

During my visit, the week-long event had numerous performances, the majority were without charge. While visiting this place, I meet artistic acrobats, fantastical beings and an writer impersonator telling stories. I hear empowering poetry and witness an incredible late-night performance including athletic artists descending from the municipal structure and suspended from a construction equipment. Future activities during the season are talks, hands-on activities and, broadening the storytelling legacy past the author, the city’s yearly enchantment celebration.

All good enchanted locations deserve a castle, and this region contains over a hundred manors and manor houses throughout the region

Cycling and Exploration

Like other Danish regions, cycles are the best way to travel around in Odense and a “bike path” meanders through the downtown area. Departing from my accommodation, I pedal to the public harbour-side swimming pool, then out of town for a loop around Stige Island, a compact territory linked by a road to the larger island. City residents picnic here in the evening, or take pleasure in a peaceful time angling, aquatic activities or bathing.

Back in the city, I dine at a local eatery, where the culinary offerings is inspired by author-inspired concepts and narratives. The literary work the national ode appears during my meal, and owner the host reads extracts, translated into English, as he serves every dish. This is a practice commonplace in my time in Odense, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it appears storytelling is always offered here.

Historic Estate Tours

All good enchanted locations need a fortress, and Fyn contains 123 castles and manor houses around the area. Taking day trips from town, I tour Egeskov Palace, Europe’s finely maintained moated palace. Although large sections are available for tours, this historic site is also the personal dwelling of the noble family and his wife, the royal resident. I contemplate if she can feel a pea through a mound of {mattresses